I read the recent weekly column by Eric Asimov in the New York Times about Paso Robles zinfandel. Now, I am certain that this is a piece that has made many Paso producers happy, for it praises many of the wines of the region, mostly zinfandel driven ones, though. Zinfandel does indeed have a long history in the region, but due to market factors and brand visibility, North Coast zins from Napa and Sonoma have more cachet. No doubt many of our neighbors have done very well promoting zinfandel as their primary wine, and with good reason; old head-pruned vines, warm climate, and interesting field blends all make zin work well in Paso. It's been a workhorse variety here since the mid-19th century. But it has been eclipsed in the 20th, and now 21st--and many producers have moved on.
Asimov's work in the Times is must-read wine information, and I am a huge fan of the column. It is better written and more entertaining than anything else I read about wine, especially in newspapers and magazines, local or national. I like the rating system, and the allowance for idiosyncratic styles to be praised by the often-changing panelists. But in this case, I think the panel was looking at an outdated model of Paso Robles wine--the Oldsmobile or Plymouth, if not the Hudson or Studebaker of wines here.
Of course, JUSTIN has never really been much of a zin player, and that is by design. Justin and Deborah Baldwin explicitly sought out their corner of the region to grow the Bordeaux varieties precisely because it was different from most of the rest of Paso: at higher elevation, closer to the Pacific Ocean, it is a cooler place than most zin growers would like. And the Baldwins' aim was at a very different style and market from the zin "traditionalists." Fact is, most of the zin grown in the 19th century in Paso Robles went into nondescript if bold red blends or fortified wines. Much still does. And much of it also leaves the region and any regional labeling too. JUSTIN wines are 100% and exclusively Paso Robles grown - and we don't make very much zin (it is one of our boutique wines, only available through the JUSTIN Wine Society and while supplies last once a year in our tasting room).
Of particular curiosity to me was how many wines listed in the Times article were made outside the region, by estimable producers no doubt, but somehow a little less homegrown because of that. Ridge, Turley, Kunin, Rosenblum . . . all very fine and even iconic producers, but why can't Paso growers keep and make the "good stuff?" I am in no position to answer that. But I also don't wish to overlook the achievements of locals Peachy Canyon, Gravity Hills, Paso Creek, or Opolo in making the list among these stalwarts.
I am particularly intrigued by the notice given to Linne Calodo for its "Problem Child" blend. Here zin is teamed with syrah and mourvedre, an unlikely trio anywhere else, and it is a stunning wine. Wine Spectator's James Laube featured it in its Wine Experience tastings in October in New York, and it's the kind of blend that makes sense for the region. It uses zin to add generous fruit to two rather spicy and tannic Rhone varieties. And those varieties in turn temper the typical high alcohol of zin left by itself. This kind of idea has a future here.
We're making a most interesting blend at JUSTIN using syrah and cabernet, our Savant. I wonder how we'd do with a bit of zin in the mix? Of course, I'm no winemaker, nor vineyard manager. But we're all used to thinking creatively in Paso, whether traditionalists or not. So never say never! The twist coming up in Savant, as I've just tasted, is that winemaker Kevin Sass has used a small percentage of Malbec in the 2007 blend, due for release in summer of 2009. It's a long way from zinfandel, and we are excited about it!
